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Following pug marks in Simlipal Tiger Reserve

Following pug marks in Simlipal Tiger Reserve

Deriving its lyrical name from simul or silk cotton trees of the region, the Simlipal Tiger Reserve is sited in the Mayurbhanj district of the eastern seaboard state of Odisha (pop.46.8 million). Renowned for blazing red silk cotton blooms and shaded by flame of the forest tree cover, this abundant forest hides its secrets in hilly ranges, grass meadows and plateaus, and thousands of sal, semul and palash trees. Extravagantly praised by famous Oriya poet Radhanath Ray in his well-known paean Usha, salmali saila (‘hills of Simul’) are Odisha’s pride.

Spread over 2,750 sq.km including core and buffer areas, this deep and gigantic forest abundant in wildlife, is ripe for exploration. Declared a national park and sanctuary by the state government in 1979, initially an area of 303 sq. km was proposed for the national park. However, the size was gradually increased to 845 sq. km in 1986, and in 1994, Simplipal was designated a biosphere reserve. Moreover to implement the eco-development scheme of the buffer zone, two neighbouring forest ranges of Baripada and Karanjia were amalgamated into the tiger reserve.

Today the Simlipal Tiger Reserve encompasses 2,750 sq. km within the larger biosphere reserve covering an area of 4,374 sq. km. Straddling several hill ranges and valleys, this conservation biosphere hosts almost 1,000 species of flowering plants, 94 varieties of orchids and is the natural habitat of the leopard, wild cat, wild boar, civet cat, dhole (wild dog), wolves, bear, bison, sambhar, deer, porcupine, pangolin, flying squirrels, crocodiles and snakes. Gliding over the forest are a large number of avian species including hill mynah, the crescent serpent eagle, jungle fowl, pea fowl and the grey hornbill. Yet, the undisputed king and star attraction of the entire biosphere is the majestic (and elusive) Royal Bengal Tiger (RBT), with the reserve’s herds of wild elephants discharging the role of silent courtiers.

Grey Hornbill

According to the latest census conducted by the Simlipal administration the current tiger population of the reserve is 103. The census is conducted using the pug mark methodology with distinctive pug marks evidencing approximately 100 RBTs. This claim is refuted by the Wildlife Institute of India whose independent census conducted by camera trap methodology indicates a tiger population of less than 30 in the reserve.

Although the anarchic violence of Maoist insurgents in the region and its dwindling wildlife has reduced the appeal of the reserve in recent years, the thrill and excitement of living in the lap of nature and roughing it out minus the comforts of luxury resorts and convenience of electricity, can only be experienced in the Simlipal Tiger Reserve.

Simlipal is also famous for Khairi, the tiger cub rescued and adopted by Indian Forest Service officer and field director the late Saroj Raj Chaudhury, in 1974. The twomonths-old hungry and weak female Khairi was brought to Chaudhury by some Khaira tribals of Simlipal. Together with a sloth bear, hyena, snake and a pet dog, Khairi evolved into a majestic RBT, and mascot of the Project Tiger movement of Simlipal in the 1970s. As such, she was as much an attraction as the forest itself until her death in 1981. Chaudhury’s home has since been converted into a museum, which is also the office of the field director, Baripada.

Chahala Forest Resort

Chahala

A former hunting lodge of the maharajas of Mayurbhanj, Chahala is the first stop of visiting tourists and a vantage point for game spotting. The lodge comprises a cluster of log huts and a watch tower overlooking a fenced off area separated by a moat, where animals visit a salt lick constructed in a clearing. Every day at about 4 p.m, monkeys, peacocks, wild hen, deer and sometimes a herd of elephants visit the lick. With the sparse grassland vegetation of the cleared hunting lodge offering an unimpeded view of the salt lick, there is a good chance of visitors espying peacocks, elephants and perhaps a shadow of the big cat crossing a stream at dusk.

Bordered by towering eucalyptus trees that perfume the forest with their strong fragrance, the lodges are modestly furnished but offer a wonderful ambience and refreshing sleep.

Accommodation. Nature camp accommodation options are available around Simlipal. These are strategically located bordering the national park making for perfect rest in the wilderness. Stays include Simlipal Nature camps at Kumari (Rs.3,714 per night), Ramtirtha (Rs.3,714), Jamuani (Rs.4,333), Gurgiria (Rs.4,333). Bookings for safaris and stays can be made online at https://www.ecotourodisha.com.

Barehipani

For visitors to Simlipal, a not-to-be-missed spot is the Barehipani waterfall. This tall waterfall (150 metres) derives its name from its rope-like shape (barehi translates into ‘rope’). With its distinctive form, it plunges from a great height into a gorge of the River Budhabalanga. A watch tower built into a cliff opposite the falls offers a great view with a picnic spot. An alternative and equally scenic vista is from a wooden bungalow, raised on stilts.

Accommodation. Stays can be booked through https:// www.ecotourodisha.com. A popular option is the Simlipal Nature Camp, Barehipani.

Newana Valley

Newana

The unique features of the Simlipal Tiger Reserve are several enclaves within the biosphere, where Mother Nature is manifested in diverse and magnificent splendour. While Chahala is sited in the heart of deep forest, and the Barehipani waterfall gushes from a steep cliff, Newana is an expanse of lush valleys and grasslands. Beyond, a road threads through the valley and disappears into a thicket of sal trees from where starts Devasthali, the core area of Simlipal where tourists are not permitted. A cluster of villages thrive in the Newana valley, flanked by a sparkling stream that winds its way to the bottom of the valley.

Accommodation. Residential accommodation is minimalistic and strictly for nature lovers who aren’t fastidious about hygiene and creature comforts including security. For the more particular, a day trip is advisable.

Joranda

Sited on the edge of a cliff facing an enormous water-fall that dives 150 metres, Joranda offers great vistas and a closer encounter with the forest. The woods indeed are lovely, dark and deep, but they assume an ominous character after nightfall. Joranda is the haunt of panthers, tigers, elephants, sambhar and deer. A salt lick located across a moat attracts wildlife, and there’s a good chance of sightings after sundown.

Unlike Chahala which hosts a beat office and patrolling forest guards, Joranda is absolute wilderness with only a guard or two, equipped with sticks to deal with poachers and timber thieves, doing the rounds.

Gurguria

Sited on the banks of the River Khairi, Gurguria is a laid back hamlet with the ambience of a hill station. It is a destination in the buffer zone of Simlipal, with rambling jungle tracks ideal for nature walks and treks. An orchidarium displays 63 indigenous varieties of orchids found in the biosphere.

Accommodation. Non-AC nature campus stays offered by the Odisha forest department are available at a price of Rs 3,500 per night. An additional fee of Rs 100 per tourist per day is charged for entry into the national park premises. Details are available on https://incredibleindiainfo.org/tag/ gurguria/

Joranda Falls

Lulung

An entry point of the Simlipal Tiger Reserve, Lulung is sited on the periphery of the core area. It is a rest and recreation halt after the strenuous excursions in Simlipal or the larger biosphere. Rising 300 metres (984.25 ft) above sea level with hills glimmering in the distance, Lulung offers a welcome and much-needed break to weary limbs after trekking in Simlipal.

Accommodation. Lulung Aranya Nivas Resort offers suites and cottage options at Rs.5,600-6,500 per night.

Getting to Simlipal

By Air. The nearest airports are Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport, Kolkata (338 km) and Biju Patnaik International Airport, Bhubaneshwar (195 km).

By Rail. Balasore Railway station is the most convenient, 76 kms from Simlipal National Park.

By Road. Lulung and Joshipur are the two main entry points for tourists visiting Simlipal. Buses from Baripada to Lulung (30 km) and Joshipur (65 km) are available at all times. Private taxis also ply from Baripada.

Simlipal nature camp

Entry requirements

Entry tickets for the jungle safari can be booked online on the website of the Odisha Forest Development Corporation (a government of Odisha undertaking). The recommendation is for safari and stay bookings be made three weeks prior to the visit as the number of visitors entry is limited. For details, contact +91 (0)674-2549553/2549558 or write to contact@ ecotourodisha.com. Trained guides are available from Baripada. For reservation in tourist lodges in Chahala, Barehipani, Newana and Joranda, contact the Assistant Conservator Forests, Tourism.

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