An isolated kingdom sited in the deep Himalayas which claims to measure progress by a Gross National Happiness Index, gradually westernising Bhutan may well be the world’s last Shangri-la Sandwiched between China (Tibet) in the north and India to the south, east and west, for almost a century, the mountain Kingdom of Bhutan (pop. 784,717) has deliberately shunned modernity by cultivating an isolation policy. Until a few years ago, it was difficult for travelers to visit the country. Even today — perhaps apprehensive of the devastating cultural and environmental impact of mass tourism — it isn’t easy to enter Bhutan. Non-Indian foreign tourists have to pay a sizeable daily fee and Indians get only a seven-day permit, that can be renewed at the border with some difficulty. Yet, tourist footfalls in Bhutan are on steady rise. Tourism is one of the country’s major sources of revenue, the others being export of electricity, timber, handicrafts and agricultural products. In late November last year, after a bumpy three-hour ride in a tightly-packed van along a crater-ridden road, your correspondent arrived in the Indian town of Jaigaon in West Bengal’s Alipurduar district. Jaigaon is a typical Indian town — chaotic, dirty and noisy. Crossing an ornate gate into Bhutan I entered the radically opposite pleasant town of Phuntsholing. A model of urban planning in comparison, the streets of the town are neatly laid out, well-swept, and tree-lined, with broad pavements for pedestrians. The architecture of almost all buildings is in traditional Bhutanese style, as mandated by law. Hoardings, billboards, advertisements, posters and slogans on the walls are strictly banned and conspicuously absent. Nor does music blare from shops, which are neatly white-washed, with a standard green-colour board indicating its title and address. Garbage heaps, pavement stalls, and the crush of vehicular traffic ubiquitous in Indian towns are virtually unknown in Phuntsholing (pop. 27,658). In the courtyard of a gaily-painted Buddhist temple, elders chatted in the sun while turning their prayer-wheels. The contrast with India, visible from the grills of a wall, couldn’t have been starker. As I was to discover during the next few days, Bhutan is a relatively prosperous country, with a government that does much for its citizens, providing free education, health-care, and generous scholarships to study abroad. After a peaceful night in Phuntsholing, I took a van next morning to Thimphu, the country’s capital and largest town. The six-hour drive on a smooth, Indian-built road (most roads in the country have been built with Indian assistance), passed through stunningly scenic countryside — semi-tropical jungle for the first few hours, and as we climbed higher, pristine alpine forests spread over several Himalayan peaks rising high into clouds. Down below, a river fed by waterfalls spilling from mountain slopes cut a swathe. White prayer flags, mounted on tall wooden poles, fluttered in the wind, the sweeping vista unimpeded by billboards or buildings. We passed a few small settlements as the van sped past quiet Buddhist temples, pyramid-like chortens or stupas, and neat…
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