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The other side of Dubai

Contemporary UAE is one the world’s fastest growing tourist destinations. It offers visitors sun, sand, sea, sports, unbeatable shopping, top-class hotels and restaurants, intriguing traditional culture, and a safe and welcoming environment

Abu Dhabi skyline

Contrary to popular opinion, Dubai (pop. 3.55 million), a shopaholic’s delight, is not a country but a constituent state of the United Arab Emirates (UAE).

A federation of seven princedoms sited in the south-eastern corner of the Arabian Peninsula, UAE is bordered by the Persian Gulf to the north, Saudi Arabia to the south and west, and Oman and the Gulf of Oman to the east.
With an aggregate population of 10 million, it comprises Abu Dhabi (Abu Zaby), Ajman, Dubai, Al Fujayrah, Ras al Khaymah, Ash Shariqah aka Sharjah, and Umm al Qaywayn and sprawls over an area of 83,600 sq km including 1,300 km of coastline. In a country where expatriates outnumber natives, English, Hindi, Malayalam, Urdu and Persian are as widely spoken as Arabic, the official language. Though Islam is the official religion, UAE’s constitution guarantees religious freedom to all, and the toll of church and temple bells mingle with the call to prayer of muzzeins.

The emirates don’t offer much in terms of surviving historical or heritage monuments. Some historical ruins of UAE — Rumeilah near Al Ain, Al Madam, Al Thuqaibah, Qarn Bint Saud and Hili indicate that the region was inhabited by nomadic tribes circa 1000-300 BCE. Recorded history however is available only for the past two-three centuries. Christened the Trucial States, they were placed under British protection in 1892.

In 1952 the Trucial Council, comprising rulers of seven sheikhdoms was established with the objective of adopting common administrative, economic and development policies. This council later evolved into a federation of emirates.
The discovery of crude oil and petroleum reserves in 1958 beneath the coastal waters of Abu Dhabi — the largest sheikdom of UAE — transformed the landscape and socio-economic profile of the country. Commercial exploitation of crude oil began in 1962, ushering in unprecedented prosperity in the region.

In January 1968, Britain announced its intention of withdrawing British military forces from the area by 1971. In March 1968 the Trucial States teamed with neighbouring Bahrain and Qatar to form the Federation of Arab Emirates. The intention was to create a federation to encompass the entire gulf region. But the interests of Bahrain and Qatar provd to be incompatible with those of the smaller sheikhdoms, and both seceded from the Federation in August 1971 to become separate independent nations.

In July 1971 representatives of six Trucial States (Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Umm al-Qaiwain, Ajman and Fujairah) wrote a federal Constitution and formed the United Arab Emirates, and terminated the federation’s special treaty with the UK. Thus, UAE became independent on December 2, 1971. The last sheikhdom, Ras al-Khaimah, joined the United Arab Emirates in February 1972.

Today UAE is one of the world’s fastest growing tourist destinations. The country offers visitors sun, sand, sea, sports, unbeatable shopping, top-class hotels and restaurants, intriguing traditional culture, and a safe and welcoming environment. Unsurprisingly, it attracted over 12 million foreign visitors in 2021 and 11 million in 2022 (cf. India’s 7 million).

Climate. The best time to visit UAE is October-March when the weather is cool and hospitable. Daytime temperatures generally don’t rise above 24°C and nights can be quite cold with mercury dipping to 13°C. April-September months are hot and humid. 

Al Aln

Abu Dhabi
Abu Dhabi (pop. 1.5 million), the largest of the seven emirates, contributes 86 percent of UAE’s total landmass. Abu Dhabi city, capital of the UAE, situated on an island five miles wide and nine miles long and is connected to the mainland by two wide and well-built bridges — Al Maqta and Mussafah. All federal government offices, parliament and foreign embassies are located in this compact, well-planned city.

Architecturally, Abu Dhabi is an aesthetic blend of domes and minarets of traditional mosques and gleaming futuristic skyscrapers. Tree-lined boulevards, manicured roundabouts, dazzling fountains and extensive parks soften the cityscape. A short distance from the city centre is the marvellously engineered Abu Dhabi Corniche, an 8 km stretch of the island’s mangrove-fringed white sand shoreline.

Qasr al-Hosn aka Al Hosn Palace, in the heart of the city, is the oldest building here. Constructed in 1793 as the official residence of Abu Dhabi’s rulers, the fort was renovated in 1983. Surrounded by manicured lawns and well-maintained gardens, the fort is well worth a visit.

The Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation, housed in a delightful modern building of Islamic design rests on arching white colonnades, cool courtyards supplemented with green gardens. The foundation houses a large library stocked with 800,000 volumes and more than 250 English and Arabic journal subscriptions; a modern air-conditioned theatre; six lecture halls, exhibition centre and coffee shop. The centre also hosts cultural events such as music concerts, classic film festivals, art exhibitions and workshops.

Abu Dhabi Heritage Village is one of the most popular tourist attractions of the city. Situated on a 1,600 sq. metre site overlooking the Corniche, it offers a feel of traditional life in Abu Dhabi before oil revenue transformed the country, economically and socially. In addition to bedouin tents, there are reconstructions of palm (arish) and other houses, old fishing villages and traditional souqs.

Women’s Handicraft Centre is another must-see if you are interested in handicrafts. Run by the Abu Dhabi Women’s Association, it displays wares ranging from perfumed oils to local costume and pottery. Its quaint Arabic kitchen serves the region’s cuisine in a traditional ambience.

Dhow harbour is a meeting point for sailing enthusiasts and hosts regular dhow races. Along the quay is a small market stocked with interesting odds and ends.

Accommodation. Top-end: W Abu Dhabi-Yas Island (Rs.15,000 per night), Hilton Abu Dhabi (Rs.18,000), Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche (Rs.11,900); Mid-Range: Royal M Hotel and Resort (Rs.6,317), Royal Rose Hotel (Rs.6,509), Abu Dhabi Marriot World Trade Centre (Rs.6,600); Budget: Novotel Abu Dhabi Al Bustan Hotel (Rs.3,266), Villaggio Hotel (Rs.3,513), Centro Yas Island (Rs.3,961).

Al Ain
Approx 135 km from Abu Dhabi built around an oasis close to the UAE-Oman border is Al Ain (pop. 847,000), a lush green low-rise city sited in the shade of the Jebel Hafit mountains. Surrounded by rugged cliffs and blessed with adequate groundwater resources, this is one of the most fertile agricultural regions of the emirates. Al Ain’s history and heritage is told by its 42 ancient forts and archaeological sites. The country’s main varsity UAE University is sited here against a mountainous backdrop.

Apart from forts and mountains there are other interesting tourist attractions in Al Ain. Among them: Al Ain Oasis sited amidst a date plantation is divided into several small date farms and is accessible by foot and car. The Al Ain Zoo and Aquarium is the largest in the Middle East region. Sprawling over 400 hectares, the zoo hosts a wide variety of animals from Africa, India and Arabia and its huge aquarium houses an interesting collection of aquatic life.
Al Ain Museum houses an extensive archaeological and ethnographical collection, including gold pendants and an impressive coin collection besides a large collection of gifts received by the president from visiting statesmen and royalty. The century old Eastern Fort within the compound of Al Ain Museum is the ancestral home of the ruling family. Surrounded by a tall wall with four watchtowers it has cannons flanking its impressive doorway.

Notable among the 42 forts that dot Al Ain is the Al Jahili Fort, a large restored fort set in its own grounds with a distinctive corner turret and the Mujairib Fort comprising a main and smaller fort, a watchtower, surrounded by a park and children’s playground.

Accommodation. Top-end: Telal Resort Al Ain (Rs.22,000 per night), Al Ain Rotana (Rs.7,920), Danat Al Ain Resort (Rs.7,972); Mid-range and Budget: Radisson Blu Hotel and Resort (Rs.5,514), Al Massa Hotel Apartments 1 (Rs.6,891), Ayla Grand Hotel (Rs.3,477)

Excursions from Al Ain. Hili Archaeological Park (10 km) is famous for its scenic gardens built around several bronze and iron age sites, dating back to circa 2,500-400 BC. These sites also feature a number of antique buildings including the Grand Garden Tomb, a circular construction with three internal dividing walls housing the remains of over 200 ancients.

Dubai
The emirate of Dubai is the undisputed commercial capital of UAE. Occupying an area equivalent to a mere five percent of the country’s total landmass, Dubai extends along the Arabian Gulf coast for 72 km north of Abu Dhabi. Stretching along the strip of a narrow 10-km winding creek which divides the southern section of Bur Dubai, the city’s traditional heart, from Deira, a bustling commercial area containing an eclectic mix of retail outlets, souqs, hotels and golf courses — Dubai is a thriving trading centre famous for its distinctive skyscrapers and modern buildings such as the Burj Khalifa — the world’s tallest building, Jumeriah Hotel, Twin Towers among other landmarks.

Burj al Arab Jumeirah

Burj Khalifa

The most famous tourist attraction here is perhaps the scenic Jumeirah Beach fringing which are a number of award winning hotels. Don’t miss the Dubai Museum sited in the precincts of the Al Fahidi fort located in Bur Dubai. The museum houses an impressive collection of weapons, traditional costumes, musical instruments and the courtyard features good examples of arish huts and wooden boats.

Another must-visit location is the Heritage and Diving Village featuring reconstructions of Dubai’s maritime past. Objects on display include a tented bedouin village with traditional weapons, chests and household utensils. Shops vend handicrafts and camel and donkey rides are sometimes available. Folk dance and music performances are staged from time to time. The village offers a number of cafeterias and a seafood restaurant.

The fairly old style but exceptionally maintained Dubai Zoo which houses several rare species including the Arabian oryx, Gordon’s wildcat, Grevy’s zebra, Syrian bear and Arabian gazelle, is worth a visit. An evening stroll along Dubai Creek Waterfront offers visitors a glimpse into Dubai’s traditional maritime roots.

Accommodation. Top-end: Atlantis the Palm (Rs.53,113 per night), Taj Jumeirah Lakes Towers (Rs.9,207), Grosvenor House (Rs.22,500); Mid-range: Four Points by Shereton Downtown Bur Dubai (Rs.6,090), Mercure Suites Dubai Barsha Sites (Rs.6,294), LEVA Hotel and Suites (Rs.6,788); Budget: Regent Palace Hotel (Rs.3,828), Golden Sands Hotels Apartments (Rs.3,892), Signature Inn Diera (Rs.1,739).

Excursions. Jebel Ali (30 km) houses a sprawling man-made port and the largest free trade zone of the Arab world. It is famous for its teeming souqs and supermarkets offering literally everything under the sun.

Jumeirah Archaeological Site (22 km), an affluent suburb to the south of Dubai city is the location of an important archaeological site dating to the early Islamic period. Large houses built of beach rock (farush) covered with lime plaster have been excavated at Jumeirah by a team from the Dubai Museum.

Fujairah
Situated on Gulf of Oman littoral, Fujairah is perhaps the most gifted of the seven emirates which constitute the UAE, in terms of sun and sand. This emirate has a coastline of over 90 km and occupies only 1.5 percent of the country’s total landmass. Surrounded by ribbed rocky cliffs and sweeping valleys, Fujairah is a land of natural beauty. It offers several scenic beaches and good diving locations while the hinterland features several cultural and historic sites. Agriculture and fishing, two traditional mainstays of the economy, are still vibrant activities. 

camelsThe most important landmark of the town is the 360-year-old Fujairah Fort. Sited on a hill at the edge of date gardens, the fort is surrounded by the remains of old town houses. It was severely damaged in the early 20th century by a British bombardment. Some restoration work has been done in the past, but recently renovations have been earnestly renewed to prepare the fort to house the artefacts now on display in Fujairah Museum.

Like the other emirates, Fujairah also has a Heritage Village sited close to the fort which has a good selection of traditional homes (arish) and fishing boats (shasha) made of palm fronds. The Fujairah Museum displays an interesting collection of local artefacts found in archaeological digs at Qidfa, Bithnah. The Ain Al Madhab Gardens aka the National Park is a mineral spa with chalet accommodation on the western edge of the town. It is an extensive park complete with playground, a heritage village displaying traditional costumes, pottery and cookware.

Accommodation. Top-end: Mirage Bab Al Bahar Beach Resort (Rs.8,999 per night), Radisson Blu Resort (Rs.13,040), Royal Beach Hotel and Resort (Rs.11,123); Mid-range: Concord Beach House (Rs.4,432), Royal M Hotel Fujairah Mall (Rs.4,961), Aparthotel Adagio (Rs.5,973); Budget: Novotel Fujairah (Rs.3,606), City Tower Hotel (Rs.2,966), Ibis Fujairah (Rs.2,650).

Leisure sports in UAE
Most visitors from the subcontinent dazzled by the malls and shopping arcades of Dubai and Sharjah don’t know it. But the UAE also offers exceptionally well-developed desert and water sports opportunities.

Desert safaris. Sandy plains stretching as far as the eye can see, broken only by windswept dunes have a charm of their own. Enterprising travel agents have put together desert safari packages which have become very popular. A typical desert safari vrooms away at 4 p.m for a two-hour rough and tumble ride through sand dunes in powerful four-wheel drive vehicles. Cocktails and dinner in bedouin-style tents follow with entertainment provided by comely belly dancers.

Diving and snorkelling. Peninsular UAE offers numerous diving and snorkelling locations to suit all levels of experience. Diving around reefs and wrecks all along the coast can be a stimulating experience. The best diving locales however are located off the coast of Khor Fakkan, where one can view abundant tropical fish and turtles. For diving permits/ training get in touch with the Emirates Diving Association (www.emiratesdiving.com).

Dune buggies. One of the most thrilling terrestrial adventure activities offered here is dune bashing on a buggy. Dune buggies are available on hire at several places such as Hatta, Nazwa dunes about 40 km from Dubai.

Wadi exploration and bashing. A wadi is a dry riverbed, often the location of rock pools and unexpected vegetation, especially high in the hills. Wadi bashing trips organised by local tour operators involve driving helter skelter over rocks and streams and are not for the faint hearted. Sometimes rides can become quite rough and there have been instances when vehicles have turned turtle injuring passengers.

Fishing. Sport fishing is another popular activity in the emirates. The waters along the coasts teem with several species of fish such as marlin, sailfish, barracuda, mackerel, tuna, jack and bonito. September to April is the best season for angling.

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